Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
